Click on the link below for a detailed explaination about how colours are produced
within the Border Collie breed.
This is an excellent site written in plain english so that everyone
can understand the genetics of colour.

http://www.bordercolliecolors.com/bordercolliecolors.genetic.lingo.html

 
 

CHARACTERISTICS - The Border Collie is highly intelligent, with an instinctive tendency to work and is readily responsive to training. Its keen, alert and eager expression add to its intelligent appearance, whilst its loyal and faithful nature demonstrates that it is at all times kindly disposed towards stock. Any aspect of structure or temperament foreign to a working dog is uncharacteristic.

TEMPERAMENT - (See under Characteristics)

HEAD - The skull is broad and flat between the ears, slightly narrowing to the eye, with a pronounced stop, cheeks deep but not prominent. The muzzle tapering to the nose, is strong and the same length as the skull. The lips are tight and clean and the nose is large with open nostrils. The nose colour in all dogs will be a solid colour with no pink or light pigment, and shall complement the background colour of the dog.

EYES - The eyes are set wide apart, oval shaped of moderate size harmonising with the colour of the coat but darker colour preferred, except in the case of chocolate where a lighter colour is permissible and in the case of merles where blue is permissible. The expression is mild but keen, alert and intelligent.

EARS - The ears should be of medium size and texture, set well apart, carried semi-erect. They are sensitive in their use, and inside well furnished with hair.

MOUTH - The teeth should be sound, strong and evenly spaced, the lower incisors just behind but touching the upper, that is a scissor bite.

NECK - The neck is of good length, strong and muscular, slightly arched and broadening to the shoulders, without throatiness or coarseness.

FOREQUARTERS - The shoulders are long, and well angulated to the upper arm, neither in nor out at elbow. The forelegs are well boned, straight and parallel when viewed from the front. Pasterns show flexibility with a slight slope when viewed from the side.

BODY - The body is moderately long with well sprung ribs tapering to a fairly deep and moderately broad chest. The loins are broad, deep, muscular and only slightly arched, flanks deep and not cut up.

HINDQUARTERS - The hindquarters are broad and muscular, in profile sloping gracefully to the set on of tail. The thighs are long, broad, deep and muscular with well turned stifles and strong hocks, well let down, and when viewed from the rear are straight and parallel.

FEET - Oval in shape, pads deep, strong and sound, toes moderately arched and close together. Nails short and strong.

TAIL - The tail is moderately long, set on low, well furnished and with an upward swirl towards the end, completing the graceful contour and balance of the dog. The tail may be raised in excitement, but not carried over the back.

MOVEMENT - The movement is free, smooth and tireless, with a minimum lift of the feet, conveying the impression of the ability to move with great stealth. The action, viewed from the front, should be straight forward and true, without weakness at shoulders, elbows or pasterns. Viewed from behind the quarters thrust with strength and flexibility, with hocks not close nor too far apart. When trotting, the dog's feet tend to come closer together as speed increases, but when the dog comes to rest he should stand four square. Any tendency to stiltiness or to cowhocks or bowhocks is a serious fault.

COAT - Double coated, with a moderately long, dense, medium textured topcoat while the undercoat is short, soft and dense, making a weather resisting protection, with abundant coat to form mane, breeching and brush. On face, ear tips, forelegs (except for feather), hind legs from hock to ground, the hair is short and smooth.

COLOUR - Black and white, blue and white, chocolate and white, red and white, blue merle and the tri-colour black, tan and white. In each case the basic body colour must predominate and be the background colour of the dog.

SIZE - Height: Dogs 48-53 cm (approx. 19-21 ins) at withers Bitches 46-51 cm (approx. 18-20 ins) at withers

FAULTS - Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in ex

NOTE - Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.

What is in a Certificate

 All registered dogs with the Dogs Victoria (Victorian Canine Association) have a certificate to say, “I’m a registered Pure Bred or Associate Registered Dog”.

The differences between the pure bred register and the associate register is that to be on the pure bred register your dog has to be of known recognized and registered parentage of the same breed.

To be on the associate register your dog does not fit within the above description. They will usually be cross bred or dogs whose parentage is unknown. Associate register dogs are eligible to compete in obedience, agility and many other trials.

Within the pure bred register there are two further divisions, main register and limited register. The certificates from each of these two registers contains similar details, they vary in colour, blue for the main register and orange for the limited register.

The functions of each of these registers is different, the main register (blue certificate) has full rights, in that the dogs on this register can be shown in conformation shows in order to gain titles and may be bred from to other main register dogs of the same breed and have their progeny registered as pure breeds. You have to be a Dogs Victoria (VCA member) to transfer a dog to or from this register.

The limited register (orange certificate) indicates that dog is pedigreed but cannot be shown at conformation shows nor can the dog be bred with and have the progeny registered as pure breeds. A dog can be moved from the limited register to the main register with the approval of the breeder.

Ethical Breeding

The only reason to be breeding purebred dogs is to preserve the best qualities of the breed. Breeding to supply any market is not a justification.

You need to do all of your breeding with the best interests of the breed in mind. Not to make money.

For this you need to be a serious student of the breed and devote years of your life to it. Not think about now and gone tomorrow.

As a beginner you need to truly involve yourself in the breed as much as possible and ideally find someone who has been involved with this breed to learn from.

You need to keep track of all puppies you produce, whether pet or show, to know how you're breeding program is working.

All pet dogs need to go on a spay/neuter contract.

All show puppies need to go on a contract that will not allow breeding unless the dog lives up to the quality intended and passes all health checks and certification necessary for that breed.

Co-ownerships allow you a certain amount of control; they require your signature in order for puppies to be registered. The decision  to have a Co-ownership contract is up to the breeder (the one who has the puppies) and judgement is usually made on a one on one basis as every puppy and person is different.

Breeders owe it to their breed and to themselves to be involved with rescue cases.

Every breeder should be prepared to take any dog back for whatever reason. If they don't have the room, then they need to be prepared to make other arrangements. But this agreement is a must!

Because of the times we live in we do charge for the puppies we produce.
I'm sure if we could we would all rather place them into deserving homes as valuable gifts. This would also get rid of the puppy farmers, as they couldn't make any money.
The fee charged is what we consider fair for the time and effort we put in but certainly not enough to cover all cost.
If someone can't or will not pay the price then let them go elsewhere or advise them of their choices, such as a rescue.